Adventures in India

This is a very popular, moderate trekking route to the incredibly beautiful Chandratal - The Lake of the Moon in the Himalayan highlands. The route begins at Manali, crosses over the Hampta Pass, and travels along the mighty Chandra river to its origin.This trek is best done from July to September, though it is possible from mid-June to October (depending o­n weather)

This is a very popular, moderate trekking route to the incredibly beautiful Chandratal - The Lake of the Moon in the Himalayan highlands. The route begins at Manali, crosses over the Hampta Pass, and travels along the mighty Chandra river to its origin. It can end at either the Kunzum Pass, or the Baralacha pass. This trek is best done over a duration of 10 days as follows:

Day 1: Jobdi Nallah to Juara - 4 hours

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The beginning of our journey toward the Hampta Pass begins at the end of the newly constructed road into the Hampta Valley and takes us into high Himalayan meadows, rich in their fertile greenery and many medicinal herbs. o­n the way, we pass settlements of Gaddis. The Gaddis are nomadic shepherds travelling to high nourishing pastures in the summers and coming down to low altitude towns before the snowfall in winter. They are delightfully cheerful folk, ready to join conversation with passing travellers and full of practical wisdom. Like them, we set camp too o­n a charming high pasture of Juara - the last o­ne before the pass

Day 2: Juara to Sheragadu over the Hampta Pass - 6 hours

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We climb up to the pass and pay our respects to the deity of the pass symbolized by the numerous prayer flags fluttering in the constant wind. o­n o­ne side of the pass, we see the fertile Kullu valley covered with a blanket of rich green grass - o­n the other lies the barren Lahaul and Spiti district with its bare landscape. Far below, the small patch of green that we see, is out campsite for the day - Sheragadu

Day 3: Sheragado to Chatru - 3 hours

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An easy, easy walk, pleasant, downhill, just perfect for us to absorb the unfamiliar starkness of this new region we are venturing into. Just before our destination, is our o­nly challenge of the day - a powerful waist-deep stream with freezing cold water coming straight down the mountain and flowing into the terrifying Chandra thundering some 100 metres below. In recent years, a bridge has been built to make crossing easier, though it also has been known to be missing very early and late into the trekking season. We meet the road at Chatru. This is the road going to Spiti. There are tea shops here, which also offer bedding, and some mouthwatering food.

Day 4: Chatru to Chotadara - 5 hours

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Along the road, which is hardly different from the scenery except that the trail seems wider. Ocassional vehicles bump and rattle past, emphasizing our luck in walking pleasurably along this way. The disconcerting roar of the mighty Chandra is now our constant companion and we learn to get used to it, as we camp next to it at Chotadara.

Day 5: Chotadara to Batal - 5 hours

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More along the road and the barren expanses, with the road sandwiched between the sheer cliff and the river. The landscape getting more surreal with each step, and the river seeming tamer as we get nearer to its source. We camp at the windy, stony and freezing Batal. Ironic that such a seemingly hostile camp is followed by o­ne of unsurpassed appeal.

Day 6: Batal to Chandratal - 5 hours

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We continue up the Chandra, and break away from the main Spiti road to a narrow jeep track to the lake. This winding track is so narrow, that in the rare chance, that it is operational and two jeeps come from opposite directions, o­ne of them can end up backing up carefully and awkwardly for over a kilometer to find a place where they can pass. This track ends abruptly a couple of kilometers before Chandratal and we climb a short incline and pass over into the magical world of the Gods.

Day 7: Rest day at Chandratal

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We take a walk around the lake, enjoy the serene waters. We visit our neighbouring shepherd camps, drink goat milk tea, meditate, chat, and do whatever takes our fancy. The Chandratal is a high altitude lake with fresh water. It is said to be pure water that is refreshed continuously by a stream in the lake bed. The clear water has inspired many to explore it, including strong swimmers wishing to swim right across and scuba divers. Yet, most people are reluctant to actually do such things, saying that they can sense a powerful power in the water, that they feel would be inaapropriate to disturb. Locals credit this feeling to the presence of a small world of Gods at the bottom of the lake. Whatever the reason, the intense feeling of spirituality that this lake holds is unmistakable.

Day 8: Chandratal to Kunzum Pass - 5 hours

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Well rested and refreshed, it is time to return to our familiar world and what better place to and this pilgrimage to a place of natural beauty than the Kunzum Pass. A steep, but pleasant climb takes us to the top of the Pass with its small temple to the goddess Kali, that is unlike any temple in ambience and custom. Just a little off the main road, this temple has a motorable track going right around it, which every vehicle crossing this pass detours to drive around to get her blessings. It is said that vehicles that do this are protected from the dangers of this road. We offer our respects here, and tear strips from the prayer flags tied here to take away as a blessing, while tying our own prayer flag here to flutter endlessly, and send the prayers written o­n it to the gods in the sky.

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Itinerary by Wide Aware